I'm fairly ignorant about laptops. I want one to just be the input to my stereo, to play mp3s. If it played MIDI files too that'd be nice. But all I really need is stereo sound output and a big hard drive. Would something like:
http://us.toshiba.com/computers/laptops/satellite/C650/C655-S5082do it?
It says it has a headphone jack. I have plenty of stereo 1/8" to RCA plug splitter cables. Use them all the time with desktops.
Thanks
Sure, that would work fine. I also have a Toshiba Satellite laptop. Love it. Toshiba has improved their internal sound card performance over the years.
Like any 1/8" headphone jack, I recommend not plugging and unplugging it too much. Those jacks are notorious for failing under heavy use. And, if you think you will be doing that a lot, there are plenty of USB audio interfaces out there, some fairly inexpensive.
Thanks Matt. I was pretty sure but last laptop I had was a 486 monochrome.
It'll stay plugged in most of the time.
I like CDs but you just can't beat the convienence of compressed files and I honestly don't hear a difference.
I agree. Especially on laptop audio, it would be hard to hear a difference between a .WAV file and a higher bit-rate .MP3.
Consider battery life on your laptop. The newer laptops I've seen suggest that you not leave them powered up all the time. To lengthen battery life, it's better to run on battery and nearly discharge it then recharge.
I've always heard that about batteries too - they develop a "memory." But I'll probably leave it plugged in normally, once I get all the junk cleaned off it and the mp3s loaded.
The main reason I want a laptop instead of desktop is space, and lower power consumption. I think it's only 65W. It'll feed into my 1977 JVC receiver and big Infinity speakers. Weird combo of old and new!
I've heard Win 7 boots up fast which would be good too.
Windows 7 does boot faster. I wouldn't yet call it 'fast', just 'faster'. With an SSD boot drive on my desktop, now I'm willing to say 'fast' for that.
I don't think the technical explanation for the batteries involves their 'memory' anymore, with lithium ion batteries, but not being plugged in all the time is simply a guideline to extend battery life. Someone like Mac or Lawrie or rharv might know better about this.
Note that I do always plug in if I'm doing intensive work using the hard drive or CD/DVD, especially installing software.
Just for your consideration:
When I was helping some friends shop for their first laptop recently, my computer sales/service shop (who sell Toshiba) informed me that Toshiba has the highest return-for-warranty incidence in the industry. Asus has recently surpassed Apple in fewest laptop warranty repair returns.
I find that by using a USB to Audio interface not only is the sound better (more bandwidth - lower lows and higher highs) but the reliability is better than by using the headphone or speaker jack.
Most modern laptops are fine for playing mp3/wav files. I just retired one I bought in 2002 and used on stage for 8 years. It still works fine for mp3/wav files, but the hinge for the lid is wearing out.
Here is how I make and run backing tracks on stage:
http://www.nortonmusic.com/backing_tracks.htmlNotes ♫
I bought a refurbished Toshiba Satellite L305-S5937 in mid 2009 to take an online course in medical transcription for which I didn't want to use my DAW. During and since that time I have used it nearly continuously (meaning 24 hours) for streaming audio. The screen flickers intermittently, but that's the sole mechanical issue.
I am about to adapt it for use as a portable unit for my transcription job, which is another way of saying that I trust it implicitly.
I agree with the use of an interface instead of the headphone out because of the significantly better sound quality.
Good luck with your search.
Richard
Today's laptops generally tout rather good audio quality on the output or playback side of things. This is due to the widespread interest in using laptops for the playback of DVDs, mp3's etc.
If you are not interested in *recording* music via analog inputs, it is very likely that a laptop purchased reently will be able to play back via the earphone jack with good quality sound.
Here is one thing I've found to be the case when people don't get the kind of sound out of the built in soundcard -> Failure to open the Software Playback Mixer for the built in soundcard and TURN THE FADERS FOR THE MASTER AND WHATEVER INPUT THEY ARE PLAYING BACK ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP when using the earphone jack as a line input to an amp.
Without the Volume turned up to where it can drive the Line Input hard like that, the typical response is to try turning up the hardware Volume on the amplifier - which will not result in the proper gainstaging and result in a rather "thin" sound. rule of thumb with Audio line is that you want to DRIVE it, not try to "suck" the audio out at the other end.
I've tried a few blindfold tricks on some of the musicians I work with, and the results back up what I've said. They cannot tell the difference between the onboard sound on my laptop and several different outboard USB and one pcmcia sound device when playback thru amp is the issue. Funny thing is that when I've let them SEE the outboard device looking as if it is hooked up to the board and working, yet I'm actually channeling the earphone jack to the board instead, then they smile and say they told me so. Musicians are a funny lot.
--Mac
Quote:
I find that by using a USB to Audio interface not only is the sound better (more bandwidth - lower lows and higher highs) but the reliability is better than by using the headphone or speaker jack.
?
If both are set for 16/44.1 and the source mp3 file is also going to be that, there is no wider bandwidth available, regardless of the soundcard's capability.
Quote:
Most modern laptops are fine for playing mp3/wav files.
This is correct.
Just be sure to turn the software playback faders ALL THE WAY UP when driving a Line, inclusive of any Master Fader that may be there. Adjust Volume using the physical controls on the amplification system and not the software volumes.
--Mac
I appreciate all the good advice. Turns out Best Buy doesn't REALLY have that one available right now. I guess they want you buy a more expensive one.
Like Mac said, I always turn the sound card volume all the way up when I use the desktop into the stereo.
I'd probably only get the USB interface if the headphone jack started to act up. Good to know it's an option.
Could someone please list some examples you are using of the
"USB to Audio interface"
discussed here?
Thanks!
LLOYD S
I got some hits Googling "USB to audio". Looks like they're around $20 US.
OK, thanks. I did the same.
I'm hoping someone will let us know of one
they are currently using and satisfied with.
M-Audio Fast Track Pro, while not cheap (about $170) is excellent.
The M-Audio Faat Track Pro is one of the devices I was referring to also.
I have no firsthand experience with those cheaper Class Compliant devices, my feelings are that you get what you pay for.
--Mac
Quote:
Quote:
Just be sure to turn the software playback faders ALL THE WAY UP when driving a Line, inclusive of any Master Fader that may be there. Adjust Volume using the physical controls on the amplification system and not the software volumes.
--Mac
This has been my experience also. Maxing the volume faders at the laptop end is the single biggest factor.
Terry
Perhaps because I live in South Florida, but the headphone jack of my laptop always gives a little snap, crackle or pop when jarred and hooked to an amp. I use Caig DeOxit and ProGold religiously on all my connections, which minimizes the problem but doesn't take it away.
I've never had this happen with a USB to Audio interface. That in itself is a good reason for me to go with the USB-Audio. I bought a low-end Edirol model in 2002 for around $50 and it still works perfectly.
A few years ago I read some tests in a trade magazine where they measured the bandwidth from the headphone jack of various computers and a few USB to Audio converters. All the USB to Audio interfaces had better output bandwidth than the headphone jacks. Not only were more highs passed by the USB converters, but the frequency curve (signature) was much flatter.
Of course, whether or not this is something a person can actually hear is another issue entirely. Also, what is the bandwidth and signature curve of your amp/speaker system. If the USB to Audio goes to 22khz and your speaker rolls off at 14k, that 22k won't be heard anyway.
So there are a lot of variables here.
Then you must consider where you are going to perform. I perform in noisy environments (night clubs, private parties, etc.) where no mater how respectful the audience can be (and they aren't always that respectful) the ambient noise in the room masks out any imperfections in bandwidth. So the output of the headphone jack would probably be just fine for me. But if my hand accidentally brushes across the cable enough to wiggle the plug the slightest, the pop coming out of the loudspeakers will be startling. For this reason only, the $50 ea investment for 2 USB - Audio interfaces was worth it. (The second one is for a backup, which I have never needed. I do swap them every couple of years though so that they both get used).
Insights and incites by Notes ♫