I had a look in my add and remove programs and saw that I now have BIAB 2008.5 build 262 update and it is showing

25,765.00mbs. isnt that 25gbs? Wow.

Normally biab goes to C drive doesnt it?

So any info re above would be appreciated.


Next I did a defrag and the defrag was a couple of hours putting wav files into what ever it does, so is that all those real tracks and styles floating around?

This is the wrong area of the forum for this question - there is a dedicated area for questions regarding BIAB. However, you do not state whether you mean the update is 25GB or the whole of BIAB once the patch has been installed. If you mean the patch itself, there is something wrong. I have BIAB 2008.5 (264) and all the RTs to date (except sets 13-19) and my bb folder is 15.4GB in total. Mind you, if you have expanded all the RTs to full and not kept them in compressed format (i.e. *.wma format) then it may well be bigger.

HTH

Hello devonplayer,

20-25 GB sounds about right if you have *everything* for BB, including all the RealDrums (Sets 1-20) and RealTracks (Sets 1-19). One thing you can do, to make sure you're not wasting space, is to press the [Archive] button in both the RealDrums and RealTracks settings dialog - this will deleted any unnecessary wave files. Also, you can ignore that it says 'build 262 patch' there

Hi Devonplayer,

I just installed my SuperPAK on a USB hard drive. It does take 20-25 Giga.

All the files installed under \bb and \\RealBand.

As to fragmentation, and files being PHYSICALLY scattered in the drive, it would depend on how much continuous disk space was there in your hard disk PRIOR to installing the PG software.

If the disk was defragmented BEFORE installing the software (a good idea, would say), and the 25 G is continuous, then installation should not cause fragmentation. In fact, the software should likely work better, as some of the wma files are large, and when they are not fragmented, the operating system needs to do less seeks.

I believe that once one knows what one really uses, many files can be moved to separate storage, maybe one or more DVD's. But with all of it being in a fairly large USB drive, I am in no rush to do that, specially since I'm starting with it.

This drive I got is both USB and firewire, by the way. I'll hook it as firewire as soon as I get a cable that fits my laptop. Firewire should be even faster than USB, but actually USB is fine.

Best of all.

Yes, it must be one of the largest items on my harddrive, at this rate and down the line it will require a computer just for this one piece of software?

And I can only play it through my pc speakers, my yamaha psr9000 causes the program to lock up if I set midis to Yamaha.

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Yes, it must be one of the largest items on my harddrive, at this rate and down the line it will require a computer just for this one piece of software?

And I can only play it through my pc speakers, my yamaha psr9000 causes the program to lock up if I set midis to Yamaha.

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I'd say it's a good idea to consider an external USB drive in case you don't have one. They are quite cheap now, specially if you don't go the "maximum" gigabyte models. That's because the previous-to-the latest sizes are not attractive to install in new computers and the stock needs to be moved out, and so they sell them as USB drives with the usb cable and ready to plug and play. Therefore there are real bargains on USB drives daily on computer stores. The USB drive I used is the same one I had for external backups of my laptop disk drives; and external backups is one very advisable thing, anyway (for about $100 USA), even if later you buy a second computer.
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On the Yamaha locking up, one thing might be your interconnecting MIDI cable. If you are connecting with classic MIDI cables, you could try instead a MIDI-USB converter cable or box. My old Yamaha PSR-740 had that lockup untill I connected it with USB cable. By the way, the Yamaha MIDI sound modules in arrangers produce excellent sounds and zero latency practically, as such. You turn MIDI local off at the instrument, and check your clock signals as to who is clock master and who is not. You might even want none to be master.