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Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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This isn't really a BiaB problem as much as it's most likely an issue between my PC running Win7 and my Marshall CODE amp, which has a USB connection.

Everything started out fine. My CODE is supposedly fully USB compliant, thus Marshall does not supply a USB driver for its CODE amps. When I first hooked up the amp, the computer made the USB noise, then installed a driver for the amp. CODE showed up in Windows "Sound" dialog, or whatever it's called, as one of the choices for recording, which is what I wanted.

I first used the amp to record audio with some BiaB tunes I was working on. It worked fine -- at first. Then, suddenly, the volume was greatly reduced. I couldn't find a reason for this, so what I did was just turn up the amp's gain and boost the recorded signal in BiaB. That worked okay. But then, the volume fell off again. And this time the signal was barely evident.

So, I went to the Sound dialog and looked around. I noticed that my sound card was shown as the default recording device, so I changed it to the CODE, figuring I could always change it back to my card when I was finished using the amp.

I tried recording again, and this time I got flat lines. No signal at all. So I went back to the Sound dialog, and in a moment of what appears to be stupidity now, but seemed like a good thing to do at the time, I disabled the CODE amp in the recording section. But instead of showing the amp, but disabled, the amp disappeared from the available devices.

I booted the Device Manager and looked in the sound devices, and found that the CODE was listed and it showed that it was active and working normally.

At this point I was thoroughly stumped, so I googled the topic and found a thread over at the Marshall forum on this topic. One respondent recommended that the original poster shut down his PC and unplug it from the wall, then reboot. So I did this. I even shut down the CODE amp and unplugged the USB cable at both ends. I powered everything back up and reconnected the amp. But this time the PC didn't make the USB noise when I plugged the amp in. I tried two other USB ports and it wasn't recognized on either of those ports either. The Sound dialog still shows no CODE and now the Device Manager shows no CODE also. And of course, BiaB doesn't either.

So it appears that somehow my PC has decided not to recognize my amp anymore. So now I'm wondering if there is any way to reset Win7's USB section so that it will recognize my amp again. I don't know how to do this. I don't even know if it is possible. But I've tried everything I know to do. And before you ask, yes, I tried ASIO and I tried ASIO4All and they don't see the CODE either.

Any ideas?

Last edited by cooltouch; 11/09/19 09:33 PM.
Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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HI

Just in case the code amp has gone faulty as you say it was gradually loosing volume

Can you try plugging it in to another pc and see if you get the bing bong.

Mike


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Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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As you probably know you are not the only one with this problem. Here are a few things off the top of my head, if you have done all of these then just ignore this message:

1-Turn off everything then disconnect the Code's USB cable from the amp and the computer. You are plugging into the computer and not an USB hub right? Some units do not work well with USB hubs, AC powered or not.

2-Uninstall all Code software

3-Run cCleaner in both the cleaner mode and the registry mode. NOTE be sure to click on the back up registry window when it comes up. cCleaner has a free version. This should eliminate any Code registry entries.

4- Now the tricky part as some companies want you to install the drivers then plug everything in while others want everything plugged in when installing drivers. Thus you may have to try it both ways.

A-Shut down your anti virus, anti malware and everything else that is running in the background. Then install the driver.

B-Plug in the Code. Pray that it works.

C-If not try the other option of plugging in the code and installing the drivers. NOTE that you should run #1-3 again before trying.

4-Have you tried other USB ports. Some USB 2 units don't work well in USB 3 and visa-versa.


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Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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Mike, I haven't tried the amp with another PC yet. I guess that'll be next. My DAW is a desktop device. My other PC is a laptop, so at least it won't be so hard to try it out.

The amp wasn't really "gradually" losing volume. It was like, suddenly, the volume was cut in half, and then, suddenly, it was cut down to where just a trace showed in BiaB's Audio Edit window. So it was more like it lost volume in jerks rather than gradually.

Mario, my original post answers a couple of your questions, but I'll go ahead and address them here.

1. I already did turn off everything and unplugged everything. It didn't make any difference. Are you suggesting that I try this again? I'm not hopeful the results will be any different. And no, no hub. I'm plugging directly into USB ports on the PC, although I suppose that, for the sake of full disclosure, the USB ports I'm plugging into are ports installed in the case. Cabling from these ports I connected to USB jumpers on the motherboard -- so it really shouldn't make any difference, I would think. I use these ports all the time because they're convenient. The ones on the back of the PC mostly definitely are not convenient. DAW and all. Think festoons of wiring back there.

2. There is no CODE software. As I mentioned above, the CODE is supposedly USB compliant, so Marshall doesn't supply a USB driver for the amp.

3. I'll have to snag a copy of cCleaner. I don't have anything like that installed. Probably about time to run something like that anyway.

4. Just to repeat. There are no drivers for the CODE amps.

A. N/A

B. Boy Howdy

C. Again, no drivers

4. As mentioned previously, I tried three different USB ports.

All is not lost. If all else fails, I'll just run the amp's line out into my Delta 66's Omnibox-thing. It amounts to an external audio interface for the card, so it's an easy way to get audio into my system. I was just hoping to enjoy the "convenience" and possibly better audio quality of USB over my Delta's analog to digital converters, which actually do an excellent job.

Last edited by cooltouch; 11/10/19 09:14 AM.
Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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+++ HERE +++ is a utility application that lists all USB devices that are, or have been, connected to your computer. Try removing all the devices you no longer use or rarely use. Also remove the amp. The next time you connect the amp Windows will perform a clean install.


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Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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Have you actually tried plugging it into one of the USB ports on the back of your PC - it's not clear from your message? The ports on the front of the computer that are connected to the motherboard via cable are not as reliable.


Andrew
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or jsut another usb port. that sometimes works. don't know why but it has worked with some of my other usb devices that have misbehaved. sometimes it triggers the drive install again

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In addition to Andrew's excellent advice, if this is a laptop, try using a USB port as close as possible to the power supply inlet. Thin circuit tracks on motherboards can result in voltage drops to USB ports which may affect performance.

Not necessarily the case in your situation, but something to be aware of.


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Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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Do you have an external interface with audio inputs? If so, use a mic in front of the speaker and send it in that way, as audio.

Yeah I know that doesn't address your question about the amp and usb..... but.... I always like to do things the way they work best and generally that's the simple, tried and true way.

Last edited by Guitarhacker; 11/15/19 06:07 AM.

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Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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Thanks for all the responses, guys. I'll address each in the order of their posts.

Jim, thanks for the link to that utility. This is something I was hoping was internal to Windows, but apparently it isn't. So I'm running it right now, and it's providing me with a ton of information that I've just started trying to sift through. Cursory examination reveals, however, that the USB ports I was using are behaving normally. They are "active" in this utility. I'll have to play around more with this, see what if anything I can do with it to possibly solve my problem.

Andrew, as I mentioned above, I have not yet tried plugging the amp into a rear port. This has to do mostly with reaching one of them without disturbing a festoon of wiring back there. I really am not looking forward to having to pull out the CPU and disturb all that stuff, just so I can plug in a USB cable. As for the reliability of the front ports, I've had no problems with them. None. Except for this amp. So I don't consider them to be unreliable.

Bob, I've already tried other USB ports. Didn't make any difference.

VideoTrack, this is not a laptop.

Guitarhacker, if I choose to go audio, the amp has a line out. So no need to mess with a microphone. And if I can't solve this issue, that's exactly what I intend to do.

Help! Tech S.O.S (Off topic)
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Cooltouch,

Many online and retail electronic stores sell +++ USB EXTENSION CABLES +++ .

I discovered these in the early 2000s when my cubicle workspace got smaller and smaller and all the USB ports on my work computer became increasingly difficult to access. I brought the idea home and applied it to my personal desktop computer. The computer has four rear USB ports and two front panel USB ports so I routed six extension cables from the computer to my desktop. The front panel cables are white while the rear panel cables are black. I guess you could also put labels on them. smile


Jim Fogle - 2024 BiaB (1111) RB (5) Ultra+ PAK
DAWs: Cakewalk by BandLab (CbB) - Standalone: Zoom MRS-8
Laptop: i3 Win 10, 8GB ram 500GB HDD
Desktop: i7 Win 11, 12GB ram 256GB SSD, 4 TB HDD
Music at: https://fogle622.wix.com/fogle622-audio-home
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