Well, it would be rather low impedance audio here, so if economy was a concern then I'd likely go for 10uF electrolytics to make sure that bass frequencies got thru and then some.

These would be polarized caps, so I'd put the DMM to the pot output to see if there was any DC there and govern the polarization direction of the caps accordingly. If no DC is measured at the pot, then it likely wouldn't matter but I'd want to place both caps in the same polarity for each channel, of course.

For ultimate audiophile edition I'd go with silver mica caps, which are nonpolarized. 1uF or 2uF should do it.

I'd want at least a 35V rating, with higher voltage ratings being better.

The idea here is to protect the keyboard from the outside world, as it were. Whenever you add electrical ports to the outside world, you want to guard against the wildest of possible scenarios. Such as plugging the keyboard into an amp or mixer that had a shorted coupling capacitor in its first stage, which would likely mean that DC would be present.

Is it needed to work? No. Just a good idea for the sake of longevity. Or, as my late uncle used to say, "couldn't hoit.." .


--Mac

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