This is NOT ADVICE. I would NEVER tell you how to do line voltage (power mains) mods - if you are a EE, a certified tech, or have been doing amp mods, building radios, radars, etc., most of your life you'd NOT be asking in the first place and I don't want the liability.

HOWEVER if it were ME and I was (re)doing this on my '62 GA-19RVT

REMOVE THE CAP completely (removes any possibility of accidental shorts, arcs, or any dumba$$ery by user) - don't get lazy thinking you can "lift a leg" or wire around it.

AND make sure my NEW GREEN wire (ground) is NOT just soldered on somewhere but is solidly and physically connected to chassis through existing chassis hole (or a new one) using an eye-let - staked/connected with nut and bolt/screw also using both a lock washer and an internal (or external) star washer both on nut side (helps keep nut from working loose due to vibrations) e.g.,

https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Fasteners/Washers-Shims/Lock-Washers/Internal-External-Tooth-Lock-Washers?navid=12108820

nut -> star washer -> lock washer -> chassis -> bolt(screw)-head


Is that overkill? not really - you won't be the one KILLED

Larry

I would also ensure and DOUBLE CHECK that the black (aka HOT) wire is FIRST to FUSE (as shown) then to switch; that way if fuse blows this keeps ANY voltage out of amp "side."


Last edited by Larry Kehl; 01/08/18 06:53 PM.

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