MarioD has good point on your power supply and its worth checking.

Jholman - since you opened it up and took a pic I can’t make out what that light blue component (directly north/up) from power input is (see my pic)? Is that the component you thought as a cap? And I have no idea what that silvery blob right next to it is either – at first glance I thought it was a TUBE – LOL. Just the picture angle I’m sure but I really can’t imagine what it is (also see pic)

BTW since you never opened it before you knew the factory fuse was correct so I’m just explaining the fuse color codes as info item (and to confirm that that fuse is correct): The big blue band at right means it’s a normal acting (not fast or slow acting) and the other three color code bands: green, black, brown = 500 mA (as indicated on by the printed notice on the board itself)


http://www.slimlab.net/mirror/fusecolours/fusecolours.htm


One parting thought (as an old tech who still does all my own repair work) I’m NOT a fan of connectors being directly soldered to PCB.s (e.g., the MIDI & RCA jacks) the force of inserting and removing plugs can break traces and pins to the trace ESPECIALLY on “free floating” (unsupported) connectors like on the SD-2. Yes A WHOLE lot of companies do it, and on almost ALL GEAR even very expensive high end gear. From a technician or seller point of view that’s great – it keeps business booming, but not so great for end user who isn’t very gentle.

(MarioD, assuming the end item was designed with a battery to begin with, then having power does NOT negate having a battery - unless you NEVER turn it off and never pull the plug, and even then it might still trickle power OUT to something.

If it does have a battery then there is some little bit of volatile memory in use or, in case of your PC or watch, at least an oscillator that needs to stay running (like the one used to keep your clock current on your PC and keep CMOS refreshed).

Larry

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Last edited by Larry Kehl; 03/21/18 05:55 PM.
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