and which do you prefer?...I only have experience with EL34's until recently when I got a Laney GH100L and the Laney takes both (with a switch for auto-biasing)-
I the 6L6's sound like they have more umph (low end) while the EL34's like to scream more to my ears...
what's the difference? which do you prefer and why?[/size]
Well, you kind of described the difference as oomph vs scream. Which fits your music genre the best? MOST of the guitar players I know all say 6L6 but that may just be a "because I have always used them because everybody says so" kind of thing. I preferred solid state because I didn't want to have to deal with heat and ventilation concerns, but it's been a long time since I was a guitar player too.
I am using the new 1040XTRAEZ form this year. It has just 2 lines.
1. How much did you make in 2023? 2. Send it to us.
I've personally found that 6L6 vs EL34 made fairly little difference. Toss 6L6's into a Marshall and it'll still sound like a Marshall - heck, many of their amps came with 6L6's from the factory!
That's not to say there are no differences, just that the differences are subtle and overshadowed by everything else in the amp. Typically 6L6 has a more solid bottom end and EL34 has more midrange harmonics, but again the amp has more to do with that. My most prized amplifier in my collection is an original Rivera Knucklehead 55. Stock it came with EL34's, but it has fat bass and the most beautiful clean Fender chime I've ever heard, even compared to actual Fenders (no doubt because Paul Rivera worked at Fender for years).
One big upshot with 6L6's is they use less heater current, so your transformers might run a little cooler. Might not be noticeable on your amp, but on an old Carvin amp I have it's much cooler.
You might get more of a tonal shift by changing preamp tubes. Long plate vs short plate, JJ vs Sovtek, 12AX7 vs 12AT7 vs 12AU7 vs 5751. Generally you can toss them in without having to change anything else.
ANYTHING you get from that amp with whatever configuration, so long as you're not in High gain mode, will sound 100% better than the "rock" clips in BIAB. Just stay away from sizzle and fizz and effects. Ue the amp for it's excellent tonal options.
Last edited by rayc; 09/30/2011:23 PM.
Cheers rayc "What's so funny about peace, love & understanding?" - N.Lowe
All the years I played and used tube amps, I have really never noticed much of a difference. I did the whole thing about buying matched pairs and changing the pre's out to Soviet, or whatever the fad seemed to be at the time. Never really could tell much of a difference between them.
I think it's kind of like the feeling you get that your car is running better because you just washed and polished it. It's not really, but it just seems that way.
That's not to say that tubes don't wear out and that replacing worn out tubes with new ones won't make any difference.... because it will. But if you have good tubes to start with, you really have to have keen ears to hear a difference and I can guarantee you that the crowd from Friday night that comes back Saturday night isn't going to be setting there sipping their drinks saying.... you know, I swear his guitar amp sounds a bit more boomy in the low end than it did last night, I'll bet he swapped his preamp tubes to those new Sovtecs.
Unless you mention it to the band... I doubt that they would realize it either.
You can find my music at: www.herbhartley.com Add nothing that adds nothing to the music. You can make excuses or you can make progress but not both.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
This is a schematic to your amp. It looks to me the bias should work well enough, but to get max performance would require a electronics guy to bias the amp. Every 6L6 or EL34 is slightly different and the bias on your amp is only adjustable by changing out resistors. Flipping the switch puts fixed bias resisters in the circuit.
The actual technical answer to your question is very complex, and very difficult to understand foe anyone. Go look at the data sheets on 6L6 tubes. Google EL34 data sheets and 6L6 data sheets. JJ Electronics has pretty good data sheets.
Adding to what Planobilly said about biasing the amp - most of these more modern fixed-bias type amps tend to keep the bias on the colder side. That's generally good from a tube longevity standpoint, but many people think biasing the tubes hotter sounds better. I personally prefer colder bias on my amps, as I feel the bottom end is a bit more solid and pronounced, but ymmv.
and which do you prefer?...I only have experience with EL34's until recently when I got a Laney GH100L and the Laney takes both (with a switch for auto-biasing)-
I the 6L6's sound like they have more umph (low end) while the EL34's like to scream more to my ears...
what's the difference? which do you prefer and why?[/size]
One post only…
Who cares?
BIAB 2023 Audiophile, 24/60 Core M2 Mac Studio Ultra/8TB/192GB Sonoma, M1 MBAir, 2012 MBP Digital Performer 11, LogicPro Finale27.4, Dorico5, Encore5, SmartScorePro64, Notion6, Overture5
For my style of playing tubes of any kind no longer matter. Amp modelling is so good today that the difference is wasted on me and most everyone I play for.
If I'm playing a telecaster, the new Fender Tone master amps sound excellent. Real nice clean sound. Reverb is good I find my pickup selection (Joe Barden's for me) much more important than the amp. The Barden's crackle the way I like and the breakup is there at volume The tonemaster weighs half what a tube based deluxe reverb does. That matters to my 62 year old back.
For a humbucker based guitar (for me a prs cs24) i normally play the tonemaster or a Quilter. I like the breakup on the Fender but the Quilter has a good sound also.
I've been waiting for decades for solid state modelling amps to do a good enough job to replace my tube amp. That time has arrived I sold my last Vibrolux 6 months ago. Don't miss it. Happy to get a grand for an amp I paid $300 for.
For my style of playing tubes of any kind no longer matter. Amp modelling is so good today that the difference is wasted on me and most everyone I play for.
If I'm playing a telecaster, the new Fender Tone master amps sound excellent. Real nice clean sound. Reverb is good I find my pickup selection (Joe Barden's for me) much more important than the amp. The Barden's crackle the way I like and the breakup is there at volume The tonemaster weighs half what a tube based deluxe reverb does. That matters to my 62 year old back.
For a humbucker based guitar (for me a prs cs24) i normally play the tonemaster or a Quilter. I like the breakup on the Fender but the Quilter has a good sound also.
I've been waiting for decades for solid state modelling amps to do a good enough job to replace my tube amp. That time has arrived I sold my last Vibrolux 6 months ago. Don't miss it. Happy to get a grand for an amp I paid $300 for.
Tube amps are dead..... Long Live Tube Amps !!!!
I quite like the Boss Katana amps. Lightweight, loud, and sound fantastic! I'd personally get the 100 watt version as a minimum for gigging.
That said, you'll never get me to give up my Rivera or my Carvins.
I have been using solid state amps for years starting with a Carvin FR1200 amp. I like the clean sound you get with them and in the wedding band business that was important. The Carvin had a distortion option on it for those rock sounds.
Too bad that Carvin amps/sound equipment went out of business. Toured the world with their gear. Everything I ever bought from them still works as new even if it no longer looks it.
Well… except for this guy (bass works great, though)
Carvin LB85 with split flame koa top.
BIAB 2023 Audiophile, 24/60 Core M2 Mac Studio Ultra/8TB/192GB Sonoma, M1 MBAir, 2012 MBP Digital Performer 11, LogicPro Finale27.4, Dorico5, Encore5, SmartScorePro64, Notion6, Overture5
Too bad that Carvin amps/sound equipment went out of business. ....................
Yes, it is too bad they went out of business as they made some great equipment. Here is a picture from the past with me and my Carvin guitar and amp:
It's such a shame. I have a 1990-ish Carvin X100B head (the carpet-covered version), and it's probably my second most used amp. Also have a mid 90's MTS3212, which was the first tube amp I ever rebuilt - it had some PCB damage at the phase inverter, which caused squealing. Sounds great, even with diode clipping on the drive channel, and has an excellent reverb!
Conversations about the various types of amps can and do go on forever. My recommendation is to play what sounds good to you.
Solid state amps have come light years from the first transistor amps.
In a conversation with Bruce Zinky once, I ask him if a solid state amp could be made to sound like a tube amp. His answer was yes, if you wanted to spend enough money.
One thing I like about tube amps is their repairability. Solid state amps in general, are designed to be less expensive and disposable. Some repair parts for solid state amps are no longer manufactured and symply don't exist.
Someone can bring a tube amp to me and I can change the way it sounds without much difficulty. Doing the same thing with a solid state amp is much more difficult. Most if not all the "boutique" amps I have ever seen were tube.
There has always been an unending search for "tone". I don't see tube amps going away anytime soon.
Billy
New location, new environment, new music coming soon
Seize the moo-ment If you feel like you’ve herd all these cow puns before, you probably have deja-moo
Mario, cool photo. Still have the double neck? Did your right sleeve ever catch any of the hardware mounted on the switch plate between the necks?
No I do not have that guitar. And no my sleeve never caught switch. What I liked about that guitar is that I could have both necks active at the same time. I use to play Dueling Banjos go back and forth between the necks. But the guitar was very heavy and almost impossible to play sitting down do to the shape of the body. I traded it in on my guitar MIDI controller.
My goal this weekend is to move just enough each day so that no one pokes me to see if I'm dead or not.
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