I am getting ready to buy a computer which will be dedicated to music only. BIAB 2016 Everything, Sonar, etc. I will be connecting guitars, and keyboards to the computer. Can someone please tell me what is the minimum configuration I should be looking for so that I can run without problems and frustrations? I hope to find something with Windows 7. Not interested in going to 8 or 10. If necessary I am willing to buy a new sound card for the system. Any recommendations on HD size, processor type, different sound card etc? I'm hoping this will be the last setup I have to buy so I would like to get it right. Looking forward to any answers I may get. Many Thanks for your time.
I've got a dedicated Music computer. It has BiaB, RB, Sonar etc and only music related software applications, nothing else. Runs Windows 7 Professional. It starts fast, and never gives an ounce of trouble. All music data is on a 1TB drive. (I won't worry about a bigger one until I fill this one.) BiaB is installed on E: but the Audiophile files remain on F: Intel Core i7 CPU, 16Gb RAM Dell widescreen monitor Sure, you can get bigger and faster but this unit does absolutely everything I need. Hope this helps Specs are below
BIAB & RB2024 Win.(Audiophile), Sonar Platinum, Cakewalk by Bandlab, Izotope Prod.Bundle, Roland RD-1000, Synthogy Ivory, Kontakt, Focusrite 18i20, KetronSD2, NS40M Monitors, Pioneer Active Monitors, AKG K271 Studio H'phones
I have to admit that, while this idea is better, I went the other way. My production machine is hooked to the Internet and I do use it for other than music (like writing this). In years past, I kept it separate, but since Windows 7 I haven't felt the need. I also rarely tweak the operating system except for a few basic things like Power Scheme.
I have a laptop that I use for browsing the net. If that blows up from malware, nothing lost.
Peter Gannon recently posted that a Geekbench reading of 2000 or so should be sufficient for BIAB. I recall that 1500 used to be the guideline, so I conclude the BIAB needs for computer power have risen. Still, a machine I have that is five years old reaches over 2000 easily. The problem with Geekbench is that you have to already have the PC to run it; the sales literature can't tell you anything in advance.
One caveat about buying something from a retail store: the name brands like HP and Dell come with the minimum inside the case to support only what you bought. This can include a barely adequate power supply, no cables for added expansion cards, not even a place to put a second hard drive - things like that. So, don't count on being able to do future expansion. For this reason, I have built all my own machines since 1982.
Some specific answers to your questions:
I like a SSD as the boot drive, at least 256GB.
I like at least one regular hard drive for data, at least 500 GB. Western Digital Caviar Black (not green) is great.
I much prefer Intel CPUs. An I5 would be the minimum to do fine for BIAB now and the reasonable future.
I like the Focusrite Scarlett series of sound cards. They use USB. Get the one with the number of inputs and outputs you need.
And I'll just say, Windows 10 is really nice but you have the option of upgrading for free for awhile yet.
BIAB 2024 Win Audiophile. Software: Studio One 6.5 Pro, Swam horns, Acoustica-7, Notion 6; Win 11 Home. Hardware: Intel i9, 32 Gb; Roland Integra-7, Presonus Studio 192, Presonus Faderport 8, Royer 121, Adam Sub8 & Neumann 120 monitors
I agree with Matt. "White box" machines are typically much easier to upgrade when necessary. Focusrite Scarlett is a nice low-latency sound solution and beats dealing with on-board Realtek and USB-MIDI cables from China. Both Intel and AMD are fine CPUs for music/sound. For Intel, i5 is minimum, but the sweet spot for Intel CPUs is always ONE BELOW the "Top bin" for price/performance. I am glad I went for the i7.
These days 16GB of RAM (and 64-bit Windows) is standard practice. An SSD boot drive and Fast SATA data drive is a good idea (OS and CRITICAL programs only on the SSD makes for fast backup/restores.) I use EaseUS and schedule a backup every night while I sleep.
Win 10 makes sense, as Win7 will EVENTUALLY be dropped from support, and that can happen more quickly than you realize. A fresh install is ALWAYS more stable than an upgrade in-place, so better just to bite the bullet and start with it if you are getting a new machine.
"Barebones" machines on eBay have served me well, and you can pick your MOMO, Power Supply, Case, USB ports etc. I do as much on USB 3 as possible, but a few PCIe slots are still advisable.
Matt's made some good points about the I/O capability.
Make sure you get a motherboard with plenty of USB ports (say 4 or more), especially with some USB-3
Try to make sure the motherboard has on-board everything you need (LAN, USB, VGA(XGA) adapter) etc. That will save you money later with add-on cards.
And yes, definitely Genuine Intel CPU
1920 x 1200 minimum screen resolution, true-color 32 bit and a good monitor would be my recommendation.
I also build all my machines, but that's not absolutely necessary, just make sure you start with everything you need. Sounds as though you are doing your homework.
Last edited by VideoTrack; 01/14/1601:34 PM. Reason: Added Intel CPU
BIAB & RB2024 Win.(Audiophile), Sonar Platinum, Cakewalk by Bandlab, Izotope Prod.Bundle, Roland RD-1000, Synthogy Ivory, Kontakt, Focusrite 18i20, KetronSD2, NS40M Monitors, Pioneer Active Monitors, AKG K271 Studio H'phones
My off-line system is a lot like Video Tracks, Win 7 Pro, 16 gigs of ram and an i7 Intel motherboard. I had extra USB cards installed and I have two 1TB HDs installed, both partitioned in half. The C:\ drive is for the OS and programs that have to be installed in the root drive while the D:\ drive is for other programs and data. The E:\ drive is home for all of my patches and RTs and RDs while the F:\ drive is for more data. This computer is only used for my music and my photography hobbies.
I have my computers custom made with high quality off the shelf parts. I have seen a number of inexpensive store bought computers with poor quality parts and in fact my nephew purchased a $300 USD HP that died within one month. I know that is not the norm but it would be one big PITA if it had happened with my music system! Plus my systems come with no added software crap, i.e. just the OS and MS Essentials anti-virus. These will cost a little more but it is well worth it in the long run IMHO.
Back to your question get the fastest computer with the most ram that you can afford. I would suggest at least an i7 Intel with 16 gigs of ram. Also factor in the cost of an audio interface, i.e. sound card. Do not even think about using the on board sounds and interfaces. You will have to determine how many inputs for your guitars, keyboards, mics, etc to buy a big enough audio interface that you need. Also does your keyboard(s) have a 5 pin MIDI plug or an USB plug as that will influence what you need in an audio interface.
Also will you need a monitor? Remember the bigger the better, especially with Sonar. Will you need a pair of near field monitors? Computer speakers don't cut it for music generation.
I hope this doesn't confuse you and I hope that it helps.
I want my last spoken words to be "I hid a million dollars under the........................"
64 bit Win 10 Pro, the latest BiaB/RB, Roland Octa-Capture audio interface, a ton of software/hardware
Recently my whole system went down, mobo dead, so I rebuilt.
Frankly most 64 bit laptops and PCs will run BIAB, an external sound card for a laptop is best. If its a Desktop, get a good audio card or system. I understand USB 3.1 is significantly faster than 3.0. However, MIDI works just fine with all speeds.
Its overkill, but an X99 motherboard and a good one such as Asus, Gigabyte, will let you load DDR4 and the new on board SSD called M2 seems also to be a good idea. This is a futurish system, it costs a lot more, but it will run everything fast. The X99s from ASUS reek quality, and the BIOS (with mouse) is a leap forward.
I had a few issues with Win 10, my focusrite Liquid 56 is firewire and old tech, I bought a firewire card PCIe, but the VIA chip set is apparently incompatible with the L56 - sometimes. So I am waiting for a Texas instruments one. I had some trouble running an old 1TB via USB 1, but when I took away the housing and satad it, it was fine.
Win 10 is at least potentially a lot better to use than Win 7. There are small improvements everywhere that make it more intuitive. It's very customisable.
Yes I am sure that is useful, particularly if you read a lot. I use a couple of (very) cheap TVs, (49") instead of monitors, they are fantastic! Maybe think about a HD TV? Resolution is capped at HD but that's OK for me, even when I am real near. Its a pleasure to have the screen space.
Many thanks to all of you for the great responses and the valuable information you have provided. I see several ideas and suggestions repeated in the responses and that provides the kind of confirmation I need. Trying to figure out the right configuration for my needs is proving challenging, but highly rewarding. I am definitely gaining more and more appreciation for the knowledge of the members of this forum and for their willingness to share. I am beginning to eliminate some of my initial ideas of what a good setup might consist of and gradually narrowing down my focus as to what is really needed and what might be nice to have. I may have arrived at the same place over a period of time, but the help I have received here has greatly shortened the process. Again, my great appreciation to all of you for taking the time to reply to my questions.
Dedicated music computers..... something that is near and dear to my heart.
I've had 2. The first was an off the shelf Dell Laptop. The second one I built from the ground up to specs that I wanted the computer to have.
First, there's nothing really wrong with using a store bought computer as a dedicated DAW. The biggest problem is all the crapware they load on those machines at the factory. That said, yes, you can clean them up and use them just fine.
You will ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS want to purchase a music specific interface for the computer. Do not think the factory card will be sufficient because it will not. If you're investing the money to build a dedicated machine, get a dedicated sound card/interface.
My custom built machine was spec'd from a website which builds and sells custom DAWs. I bought the parts, ordered the OS... XP Pro/32 and put the machine together. The goal was a fast and efficient DAW that did nothing but music and was not encumbered with the typical crapware, AV, Wifi, or internet of the other machines. The DAW stays off line except to register a new music software program.
Since it's off line, it never updates anything ever. As a result, the old XP machine runs as fast as it did the first day I started it up. Since it's XP, the available memory is limited but in all the time I have used it to record projects of varying size...small to really large, it has NEVER choked due to memory issues. It rarely chokes for any reason.
My Dell lappy, has now become a general purpose machine, being used to go on line to a few websites such as here. It remains a viable back up DAW.
However, the real studio workhorse is the custom machine with it's i5 chip and XP.... that baby is rock solid. I run a Focusrite Saffire wirefire interface on it. If the interface ever dies, I will buy another one with a USB connection since USB is now pretty much the standard. At the time, FW was faster. Now, that's not necessarily the case.
Hope this helps
Last edited by Guitarhacker; 01/17/1605:31 AM.
You can find my music at: www.herbhartley.com Add nothing that adds nothing to the music. You can make excuses or you can make progress but not both.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
Thanks for the great info, Guitar Hacker. I am rapidly gathering all the info I need to setup a music system. I have considered building one myself. Haven't ruled that out yet. Just trying to take it slow so that I will be completely happy with whichever way I go. Trying to gather all the info I need, checking what is out there off the shelf, and talking to locals has sure kept me out of my wife's hair. Sure does make things run smoother at dinner time. Thanks again for the reply.
Yes, thanks for the helpful comments and suggestions. I’m in the same position as Phestus. Laptop is about to give it up, even tho’ it’s an i7 Intel Core at 7,200 spin. I’m intrigued with the notion of going with all solid state drives, but more costly.
... even tho’ it’s an i7 Intel Core at 7,200 spin. ...
Wait, what? i7 doesn't 'spin', as far as I know. I think you may be mixing up processor and HD specs.
The solid state drive would eliminate any 'spin' specs. They are nice to have, but even faster technology is just around the corner, so these should come down in price soon.
Make your sound your own! .. I do not work here, but the benefits are still awesome
Yes, I wasn't very clear. I know zip about computers and the terminology to use in commenting on their uses. I guess I meant the internal drive was 7,200 spin, if indeed they do spin. I really don't know. I just play music. For me, the computer is a necessary tool(evil)to help get where I want to go.
Indeed they do spin. I used to bring in an old mainframe hard drive without the cover so my comp sci. students could see the innards. You've heard of a "head crash"? That occurs when the read/write head, which is flying just barely over the cushion of air above the disk surface, makes contact and 'scores' the drive, gouging out the magnetic emulsion storing the data. Not pretty. But it is the dual motion of the head going in and out over the spinning disk surface that allows for random (quick) access, like an old record player where you set the needle down on a particular track. You may not have known how it works, but you certainly made use of this design when you played music.
One of my desktop computer's Western Digital drives spins at 10,000 rpms. 7200 is still quite normal though, and 5400 is often used in laptops that don't yet have an SSD.
BIAB 2024 Win Audiophile. Software: Studio One 6.5 Pro, Swam horns, Acoustica-7, Notion 6; Win 11 Home. Hardware: Intel i9, 32 Gb; Roland Integra-7, Presonus Studio 192, Presonus Faderport 8, Royer 121, Adam Sub8 & Neumann 120 monitors
A SSD will make a seven-year computer to feel as a new, cutting-edge machine.
My lowly 2nd Gen, 2.4 i3 boots in nine seconds sharp.
Can't recommend it enough!
HTH,
yes it will!!!
I use my DAW for multipurpose, including surfing. I disable the network when recording.
I have an i5, Z77 motherboard, 256M 2 DVI output graphics card, a 500M SSD for OS (win10, just upgraded at Christmas) and an interal 1TB for samples, an internal 500M for BIAB (I transferred it from the USB drive to speed it up) and a 3TB external for backups.
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Handy flash drive tip: Always try plugging in a USB device the wrong way first? If your flash drive (or other USB plug) doesn't have a symbol to indicate which way is up, look for the side with a seam on the metal connector (it only has a line across one side) - that's the side that either faces down or to the left, depending on your port placement.
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A few excerpts:
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