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Great I honestly didn't think that tall switch would fit but then I didn't know the space of your cavity working area.
just an FWIW: get some Deoxit D5 (you should keep some around any way for guitar pots, mixer pots, rack and table gear pots, etc.) and spray the switch, from top side since it's sealed, that MAY, reaper MAY reduce audible click a little and make switch SLIGHTLY easier to "flick" and over time, it will get SOMEWHAT easier overtime anyway; however, those kinds of switches are not meant to be easily knocked from one position to the next for obvious reasons - so it will never be like your old switch.
Play and enjoy
Larry
Win10Pro,i9,64GB,2TBSSD+20TBHDDs,1080TI,BIAB'24,Scarlett18i8,Montage7,Fusion 8HD,QS8,Integra7,XV5080,QSR,SC-8850,SPLAT,FL21&others,Komp.14,IK suite&others, just a guitar player-AXE FX III &FM9T, FishmanTP, MIDIGuitar2, GK2/3'sw/GI20
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It fits in the cavity with a little breathing room (very little). The toggle is a little taller, but not taller than the vol/tone knobs.
I'm a big fan of DeOxit Red and DeOxit Gold. Living in what seems to be the corrosion capital of the world, it is my connector's best friend.
I've never used the D5, but I'll look into it. Thanks.
The click doesn't bother me because it isn't going through the amp, it's only the click of the toggle. The stiffness doesn't bother me either, I just thought I'd mention it in case someone else was considering the switch.
I'm just happy having something that works.
Notes
Bob "Notes" Norton  Norton Music
https://www.nortonmusic.com
100% MIDI Super-Styles recorded by live, pro, studio musicians for a live groove
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Bob,
I'm glad to read the switch works.
I've observed large amperage switch contacts oxidize and prevent micro current flow first hand. My employer removed a 3/4 hp electric motor but left the 30 amp dual contact power relay to activate a solid state circuit. The circuit kept failing by not activating on command. Technicians would check continuity and the circuit would work for awhile before failing again. Failure analysis finally discovered the relay contacts were oxidizing and preventing the solid state circuit from receiving an activation signal. The problem was resolved by increasing the solid state circuit load enough to prevent the contacts from oxidizing.
Mid seventies Pioneer receivers developed a similar symptom. They used a mechanical relay to energize the over current protection circuit, By design if everything worked right the relay contacts closed and enabled the power amplifier. The relay contacts oxidized which caused the power amplifier to shut down in an over current condition. Run a continuity test, everything checked out and worked again for awhile.
It takes a certain amount of current to clean the contact surfaces when they mate and separate. The minimum current needed is dependent on the composition of the material used to create the contact surface.
Jim Fogle - 2024 BiaB (1111) RB (5) Ultra+ PAK DAWs: Cakewalk by BandLab (CbB) - Standalone: Zoom MRS-8 Laptop: i3 Win 10, 8GB ram 500GB HDD Desktop: i7 Win 11, 12GB ram 256GB SSD, 4 TB HDD Music at: https://fogle622.wix.com/fogle622-audio-home
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Hmm. Perhaps I should keep the screw connectors and not solder them to make it easy to replace when it goes bad.
Notes
Bob "Notes" Norton Norton Music
https://www.nortonmusic.com
100% MIDI Super-Styles recorded by live, pro, studio musicians for a live groove
& Fake Disks for MIDI and/or RealTracks
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That switch will most likely outlive all of us. Found this: Occasionally the suggestion is made that switches be provided with minimum voltage and
current ratings, i.e., values of voltage and current below which they should not be used. This
stems from the erroneous impression that a given switch will develop performance problems
below specific levels of voltage and current. In practice, this is not the case.
From page 38 of this doc if you are interested: https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-basic-switches-general-technical-bulletin-001017-2-en2.pdfAlso see the graph on page 37 that shows switch life increases as the current going through it is reduced.
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Small world Dave. That .PDF comes from my hometown former employer, Honeywell - Micro Switch in Freeport, IL. I worked in the test lab there at one point to try and blow up switches by running them through many environmental tests.
 Steve BIAB/RB 2022, Pro Tools 2020, Korg N5, JBL LSR 4328 Powered Monitors, AKG/Shure Mics.
PC: Win11 PRO, 4 TB M2 SSD, 2 TB HD, 128 GB Memory
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Dave,
Thanks for sharing this Honeywell document. Good reading.
I brought up the possibility oxidation can occur and Bob is prepared to deal with it should the switch quit working.
I apologize if I presented my idea too forcefully. I have no desire to be viewed as confrontational and no desire to advance the conversation.
Jim Fogle - 2024 BiaB (1111) RB (5) Ultra+ PAK DAWs: Cakewalk by BandLab (CbB) - Standalone: Zoom MRS-8 Laptop: i3 Win 10, 8GB ram 500GB HDD Desktop: i7 Win 11, 12GB ram 256GB SSD, 4 TB HDD Music at: https://fogle622.wix.com/fogle622-audio-home
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Small world Dave. That .PDF comes from my hometown former employer, Honeywell - Micro Switch in Freeport, IL. I worked in the test lab there at one point to try and blow up switches by running them through many environmental tests. Constructive destruction sounds like great fun Steve. Did you design the tests, run them or a little of both?
Jim Fogle - 2024 BiaB (1111) RB (5) Ultra+ PAK DAWs: Cakewalk by BandLab (CbB) - Standalone: Zoom MRS-8 Laptop: i3 Win 10, 8GB ram 500GB HDD Desktop: i7 Win 11, 12GB ram 256GB SSD, 4 TB HDD Music at: https://fogle622.wix.com/fogle622-audio-home
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Constructive destruction sounds like great fun Steve. Did you design the tests, run them or a little of both? Mostly run them as most tests were defined by government or other agency groups like CE, UL, NEMA, IEC etc.... We had a huge lab there and were able to run switches through humidity, thermal shock (quick transfer from hot to cold chambers), vibration, power wash, dunk tank. Although this thread was based on a mechanical switch, I primarily tested proximity and photoelectric switches. Other folks in the lab handled the mechanicals. It was fun handing broken switches back to the designers to have them "Try Again".
Steve BIAB/RB 2022, Pro Tools 2020, Korg N5, JBL LSR 4328 Powered Monitors, AKG/Shure Mics.
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That switch will most likely outlive all of us. Found this: Occasionally the suggestion is made that switches be provided with minimum voltage and
current ratings, i.e., values of voltage and current below which they should not be used. This
stems from the erroneous impression that a given switch will develop performance problems
below specific levels of voltage and current. In practice, this is not the case.
From page 38 of this doc if you are interested: https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-basic-switches-general-technical-bulletin-001017-2-en2.pdfAlso see the graph on page 37 that shows switch life increases as the current going through it is reduced. Agreed. Now FWIW: I'd SOLDER that puppy in because a screw might (i.e., there is a probably of see: Murphy, Law of) could come loose over time with vibrations of handling, playing, and a wire could come off at most inopportune time. Plus it's not like you are going to put Loctite those screws, are you? BTW DO NOT put Loctite on them, bad for conductivity - LOL. As far as Deoxit, Gold is fine and if you go by marketing gold is especially good for NEW pots/switches. I use D5, and F5 (for faders), because I have cases of the stuff. For those that want to know which product is what (but take with some salt - there is some marketing in there): https://caig.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/C-WD18_OL.pdfLarry
Win10Pro,i9,64GB,2TBSSD+20TBHDDs,1080TI,BIAB'24,Scarlett18i8,Montage7,Fusion 8HD,QS8,Integra7,XV5080,QSR,SC-8850,SPLAT,FL21&others,Komp.14,IK suite&others, just a guitar player-AXE FX III &FM9T, FishmanTP, MIDIGuitar2, GK2/3'sw/GI20
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Thanks for the info everyone.
I find DeOxit Red to be the best contact cleaner I've tried. It'll take a nasty looking jack or plug and make it look almost new again. The Gold seems to delay the corrosion of those same parts.
And thanks, but I know better than to use LockTite on the screws.
I've revived my plan to solder after the holiday weekend gigs.
I like that the electrical contacts on my new switch are in a sealed box. That should keep the salt air out and not on the contact area.
I have a few coax cables with screw terminals in the phone plugs (big Switchcraft brand plugs). The advantage is quick repair on the gig site without needing to pack a solder iron. The disadvantage is the screws eventually loosen. So mostly these cables are designated as spares when the soldered ones fail.
There are only two kinds of cables, those that have failed, and those that haven't failed --- yet.
Notes
Bob "Notes" Norton Norton Music
https://www.nortonmusic.com
100% MIDI Super-Styles recorded by live, pro, studio musicians for a live groove
& Fake Disks for MIDI and/or RealTracks
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...
There are only two kinds of cables, those that have failed, and those that haven't failed --- yet.
Notes
 Along those same thoughts - when gigging or other endeavors that will cost you money (or your life): "one is none, two is one." Larry
Last edited by Larry Kehl; 07/03/19 08:36 AM.
Win10Pro,i9,64GB,2TBSSD+20TBHDDs,1080TI,BIAB'24,Scarlett18i8,Montage7,Fusion 8HD,QS8,Integra7,XV5080,QSR,SC-8850,SPLAT,FL21&others,Komp.14,IK suite&others, just a guitar player-AXE FX III &FM9T, FishmanTP, MIDIGuitar2, GK2/3'sw/GI20
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