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After ALL that angst over the MOTU use, the whining, the moaning, the complaining, the debugging, the remote control session with 2 different people including a PG tech, and the resulting bug fix to allow us to use a second interface, I just listed the stuff on eBay. Thanks out to Scott for taking the time to introduce me to control surfaces (finally) in language I could understand (I am not at his level and he broke it down to newbie terms for me). And thanks to another forum user who gave me a nice deal on his Behringer BCF2000. It integrated BEAUTIFULLY with my Sonar software AND lived through a studio move where I (stupidly) didn't take a picture of which USB was plugged into what port, so 3 of 4 devices had to redetect (XP on that box). I still need to make one quick call to Behringer to learn how to make preset 1-2-3-4 relate to each bank of 8 tracks, but it will do 32 tracks without breaking a sweat, and I rarely get past 10 or 11. But, now that I have indeed climbed and conquered Mount MOTU, it's time to move on. 2 MOTU 2408s and a PCIx-424 PCI card later (well, AND a good email exchange with Scott), it's time to use digital controls. It's one more step in the process to write in RB, export to WAV files and import them into Sonar, but if only for the cool factor of watching the sliders move to reflect the automation events, it's what I was looking for in the first place. I will get behind this barricade now to protect myself from the bottles, cans and various types of debris I anticipate will be lobbed in my direction after ALL that discussion.... 
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You are forgiven. 
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Well, Eddie, you been sick...
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All is forgiven if you post a song with ur avatar sax a wailin!
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Quote:
All is forgiven if you post a song with ur avatar sax a wailin!
+1
Chris
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No recriminations here - I learned a few things. Glad it's working out. Ian 
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Eddie, glad it's working for you. Here's hoping you find a willing buyer.
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I'm actually still thankful that it was pursued. I needed/need 10 outs and that issue brought to light the fact that 8 was the limit.I love having 8 separate outs from my soundcard to my HW mixer.
BTW can you set up that control surface to mimic all the things you can with a HW mixer? EQ, inserts? I know that you put them in the tracks effects bus on the program but are there enough knobs & buttons on the controller to do it?
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Well, let me answer this way. I am still learning it, but so far it does everything but make coffee. I haven't looked into that since I don't drink coffee, but I am sure there's a MIDI parameter for that.....
This thing has a lot of knobs and they are assignable in banks of 4, so 8 buttons gives you 32 parameters you can program. Now that everything up there is arranged again I will dig into this thing. I don't really see a way of introducing anything analog though. This is strictly digital. The back panel has MIDI in, out and thru, and 1/4" jacks for a MIDI control pedal and an on/off. Nothing analog.
Part of the studio redo included some physical stuff as well as logical. I bought a server rack to mount everything analog in, and did some treatment to my south window. It occurred to me that the south window gets sun from about 11am until about 6:30pm. Most of that time window is when the sun is at it's hottest. Physics says that the sun was heating up the 2nd floor to 90 degrees all summer. I took some old pieces of drywall yesterday and covered one side with aluminum foil. I put that in that 4x4 window yesterday about 5, too late to do much yesterday. However, I was just up there for about 3 hours and the difference in the temps up there by reflecting that sunlight instead of letting it in.... How is it these things that most of the population already knows have escaped me for all these years? In researching window films, I can across an article and some guy did this foil thing and said it worked. It does.
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Yeah, and window foil and a heat signature = inquiring minds.
I don't live in the great south, and the laws are weirdly skewed there, but No one tells John that the boys in blue do not drive, hover, fly about looking for that.
In my city it was good for one good fire a month. Funny how the pros with the far east gardener and the whole house full of greenhouse plants never caught fire, but the small upper room or basement with film on the windows or foil (ah, foil = cheap guy with growing 4 flowering plants), always caught fire.
Do the electrical math.
Do remember sitting in a circle howling, talking about Baden Powell, and 'being prepared.'
I still not sure about Cesamet.
John Conley
Musica est vita
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Foil as a heat barrier is called radiant barrier. If applied right it will reflect a large part of radiant heat. To work well cut the drywall to almost the exact size of the window opening, then cover the outside face of the drywall with the foil shiney side out to the world place it in the window, and make sure that there is atleast 1/2 inch to 1 inch space between the foils and the glass. For radiant barrier to work it needs to have an air space ot it becomes a conductor of heat rather than a reflector.
HP Win 11 12 gig ram, Mac mini Sonoma with 16 gig of ram, BiaB/RB 2026, Reaper 7, Harrison Mixbus 11 , Presonus Audiobox USB96
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Robh, thanks for the tip as I am contemplating doing this in my bedroom which is the hottest room in the house. I have seen some foil covered styrofoam or some such at a building supply store that I thought would be easier to fit the opening than drywall.
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I've had good success with R-Tech or PolyShield, both available at Lowes or HD. 2" thick with R values close to 8.
Win11, Intel i7 7700K 4.2Ghz, 32Gb RAM, 2x1Tb HD, 500Gb NVMe, BIAB/RB 2026, MOTU 828MK3 audio, MOTU Midi Express, Yamaha Montage 7, DX7II, TX802, Motif XS Rack, Roland Fantom XR Rack, Oberheim Matrix 1000, VoiceLive3 Extreme, Kontakt 6, SampleTank 4.3
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I stole an idea from an insulation shop. Spray adhesived foil shiny side up to insulation . Hung the insulation in a metal roof ....that sauna turned into a shady haven in July and August . I was going t use the space for my studio but we wound up moving. Cool concept (pun intended)
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One problem with foil coating insulation foil side up is, that will sometimes trap moisture inside the insulation, depending on the climate. If you do that buy a true radiant barrier foil that is perforated. Then it rocks. Any time you use foil faced material to reflect heat, always make sure that one side or the other has at least 1 inch air space.
HP Win 11 12 gig ram, Mac mini Sonoma with 16 gig of ram, BiaB/RB 2026, Reaper 7, Harrison Mixbus 11 , Presonus Audiobox USB96
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Quote:
Robh, thanks for the tip as I am contemplating doing this in my bedroom which is the hottest room in the house. I have seen some foil covered styrofoam or some such at a building supply store that I thought would be easier to fit the opening than drywall.
Guys let me save you some time and expense if you have hotter than usual rooms in your home after checking your AC and it's efficiency, the insulation over that room and you are sure the duct-work is not crimped the answer is solar screens, especially on the west side of your home. In fact they are screen fabrics on the market that block up to 90% of the sun's heat while you still maintain your view. Another selling point is that the screen (while you can see out) gives you privacy as you cannot see in unless there is a rather bright back-light in the room.
The way a solar screen works is the old fashion way, and by that I mean it works like an old Oak Tree. The heat collects in the mesh of the fabric then the natural airflow dissipate the heat from the screen. And all of this happens (and this is the reason they work) before the heat actually hits the window. Now radiant barrier insulation contains metal and we all metal not only conducts heat but holds it.
Most energy companies in the US, including the Department of Energy recommend these screens to keep rooms cooler and work your AC less.
PS: The radaint (foil/foam/foil) insulations work great on water heater tanks.
Later,
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Eddie
Glad things are working out.
By the way your studio pics looked great (other post).
Looks like you have plenty of fine axes to grind.
I've been using the aluminum foil idea for years and it works great here in FL.
You will also find that wearing a pointed aluminum hat in the studio will actually prevent aliens from the dreaded planet MOTU from taking over your mind.
Unfortunately (or fortunately?)it also instills an insatiable craving for Hersey Kisses.
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Danny that is good advice, but as 35 year professional insulation contractor i would disagree with one small point. Radiant barrier is reflective, not conductive. That is the point of the term radiant BARRIER. a good radiant barrier can reflect up to 97% of radiant heat.
The reason i mentioned having air space is that if the product is in contact with a solid surface it becomes conductive, but allow it to stand apart and it does it's job.
While that is true, solar screens are certainly a good option.
The foil/foam/foil products can work as insulations as well as radiant barriers.
The science of radiant barrier only requires that one side be expose to the air, hence the plywood coated radiant barrier products. These only have to have air space on the bottom side to work.
Eddie wanted to cover the window so the RB suggestion.
HP Win 11 12 gig ram, Mac mini Sonoma with 16 gig of ram, BiaB/RB 2026, Reaper 7, Harrison Mixbus 11 , Presonus Audiobox USB96
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No argument from me as we use both in our work, but for different applications. When I was speaking about holding heat I thinking more about some film/tint as some of these products actually contain metal therefore they hold heat while a solar screen does not. This is especially important when applied on the inside of a double pane gas filled window as I have actually seen some explode because of the heat buikd up between the panes. But for windows Solar Screens are designed to stop the heat before it hits the windows, plus you can still see out unlike a radaint barrier foil/foam combination.
Take Care,
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1 earlier comment mentioned my A/C. If I reach down to the grills, cold air is coming out as it should. Nothing is kinked anywhere. I just can't ask A/C 2 floors above where the pumping starts to overcome 8 hours of direct sun. Now without the 8 hours of sun, it's cool. The issue is about direction. Given the science of the sun, it rises east, moves in an arc across the sky from east to southeast to southwest to west, so that upstairs window facing south has sun beaming through it from about 10am to about 6. That includes the time window including the hottest hours of the day. That room hits 90. When the A/C is set to 68, the main floor is 68, and that one room upstairs is 90, the other room is 85. Since putting that foil up, that room now stays at 75 or less. Without that 8 hours of sun, it never has the chance to get hot to ask A/C to cool it down. Bothers me more that it took this long to think of this. Almost 61 years old and I couldn't figure out that reflecting the sun was the answer.... amazing.
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