MarioD has good point on your power supply and its worth checking.
Jholman - since you opened it up and took a pic I can’t make out what that light blue component (directly north/up) from power input is (see my pic)? Is that the component you thought as a cap? And I have no idea what that silvery blob right next to it is either – at first glance I thought it was a TUBE – LOL. Just the picture angle I’m sure but I really can’t imagine what it is (also see pic)
BTW since you never opened it before you knew the factory fuse was correct so I’m just explaining the fuse color codes as info item (and to confirm that that fuse is correct): The big blue band at right means it’s a normal acting (not fast or slow acting) and the other three color code bands: green, black, brown = 500 mA (as indicated on by the printed notice on the board itself)
One parting thought (as an old tech who still does all my own repair work) I’m NOT a fan of connectors being directly soldered to PCB.s (e.g., the MIDI & RCA jacks) the force of inserting and removing plugs can break traces and pins to the trace ESPECIALLY on “free floating” (unsupported) connectors like on the SD-2. Yes A WHOLE lot of companies do it, and on almost ALL GEAR even very expensive high end gear. From a technician or seller point of view that’s great – it keeps business booming, but not so great for end user who isn’t very gentle.
(MarioD, assuming the end item was designed with a battery to begin with, then having power does NOT negate having a battery - unless you NEVER turn it off and never pull the plug, and even then it might still trickle power OUT to something.
If it does have a battery then there is some little bit of volatile memory in use or, in case of your PC or watch, at least an oscillator that needs to stay running (like the one used to keep your clock current on your PC and keep CMOS refreshed).
Larry
Last edited by Larry Kehl; 03/21/1805:55 PM.
Win10Pro,i9,64GB,2TBSSD+20TBHDDs,1080TI,BIAB'24,Scarlett18i8,Montage7,Fusion 8HD,QS8,Integra7,XV5080,QSR,SC-8850,SPLAT,FL21&others,Komp.14,IK suite&others, just a guitar player-AXE FX III &FM9T, FishmanTP, MIDIGuitar2, GK2/3'sw/GI20
For those that have a Ketron sound module and live in the US, +++ HERE +++ is a list for US dealers. Most repair as well as sell. The US distributor, AJAM, repairs and offers upgrade packages.
I agree so many uber soft synths out there but it means endless tweaking if your song does not sound decent with a GM2 synth, then adding NI's Komplete 14 to the equation will only make things worse IMHO
Bernard Rasson
BIAB Audiophile 2021, BIAB Megapak 2015 (for midi-only projects), Cakewalk, Roland XV-5080, Roland Fantom XR, Aria AC60 Nylon Strings Guitar, Almansa Spanish Guitar, Fender Stratocaster Japan, two laptops Je parle français
My long-time favorite MIDI module, the Ketron SD2, is dying. I might buy another, but I see it's no longer available. Anybody have any thoughts on the best midi module for BIAB that's out there now? I'd prefer to spend less than $500, but I could spend more for something that's way better than less costly alternatives.
This device is in your budget frame and it offers a better sound quality than the SD2.Speed Test
You can also read the different threads in the forums regarding the SD1000.
For $500, you can buy a large number of vintage modules on eBay or Craigslist. I've given most of mine away to my daughter in Austin but I bet she never uses them anymore. I still have my JV 1010 and a Sequential Circuits piano module but I no longer recall why I kept them. My interfaces still have 5-pin DIN connectors but they've not been used in a very ling time.
I've been using Komplete Ultimate Collector's, SampleTank Max and a few others for years now. For live performance, there are a number of iOS VIs that I load onto an iPod Touch 7 that weighs 3.1 oz/7 oz with hub.
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