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Last summer I played Keyboard 2 for a show. It was a charitable event. All performers and musicians were volunteers. The part required keyboard splits. Using my Yamaha NP30 (a mere 12 pounds) and my Ketron SD2 I was not able to figure out how to do keyboard splits with any of my existing software. Since I was doing this as a volunteer I didn't especially want to purchase a real midi controller. I thought surely there must be some software that would allow keyboard splits and let me save registrations for quick changes during a show. After months of searching I have finally found it. Control Phreak, an older procuct by Florida Music Company, is exactly what I wanted. So, if anyone else want to do keyboard splits and layers with your SD2 (or another hardware module) with a midi keyboard, not necessarily a controller with layer and split capacity built in, here's the link. http://www.floridamusicco.com/proddetail.asp?prod=cp&partner=smm
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Looks like a good find, susanmusic, thanks for letting everybody know!
--Mac
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It was pretty easy to make patch lists for the SD2's four banks as text files for use in Control Phreak. I just used the tech tables that I downloaded from Ketron's website. So if anyone else gets this product and wants the text files, just PM me.
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I've got Gas again, just after getting the Bose L1 for 4k and the Behringer foot controller, darn.
My keyboard (roland/rogers w50) has a split button that does not work with the Ketron. So at times I play the 25 midi guitar patch with the slow strings and by pass the Ketron.
Going to have to look this one up.
John Conley
Musica est vita
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BTW, GAS is Gear Acquisition Syndrome, for those who don't know. LOL
John Conley
Musica est vita
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I think it should be possible to program the Berry Foot Controller to send Split commands to the Ketron. Would have to consult both manuals to see the best way to do that.
The Ketron also responds to Sysex for certain things. I'd love to find an *inexpensive* way to access the hidden Drawbar Organ with a hardware set of drawbar sliders, 9 of 'em like the Hammond, plus real buttons to start and stop the Rotary Speaker, change Chorus and Vibrato, turn Perc on or off. I've done it with code, but it isn't clean yet and I'd like to eliminate the laptop from the thing one day. Nice, cheap, homemade tactical interface box that I could make from a set of old Drawbars ripped from a doomed Hammond "hangar queen - parts monster" organ. I'd put a microcontroller in the little box, of course, and also program it up to run the B4 software, which still sounds more authentic than anything else does IMO.
--Mac
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Mac, The Oxygen 49 and 61 series of keyboards from M-Audio have 9 sliders that can be assigned in 'Drawbar Mode'. The older Oxygen 49 (silver model - the one I have) can be had relatively inexpensively on eBay, completed listings of 70-100 bucks are common (just checked). I don't actually use it that way with my B3 emulation software (I never had quality time with a real B3 to come up with my own presets) but I know it's available and possible. Rotary speaker slow/stop/fast I do with the mod-wheel - that's what's default programmed in my VB3 software and it seems to work well. One thing you won't like - the keyfeel and sharp edges of the keys = painful and erratic palm slides. So the Ketron has an actual drawbar mode that's realistic? Check out this guy's gutting of a B3 for controllers to work with B4: http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/08/virtual_organ_controller_looks_spot.htmlHave you checked out the DIY kits from Doepfer? http://www.doepfer.de/D3.htm That link is for a 3 manual organ controller keyboard. Doepfer also sells little DIY project kits that could work with a bank of faders and send MIDI data. Here's one with 16 sliders, looks to be about 300$ http://www.doepfer.de/pf.htm
Last edited by rockstar_not; 12/01/09 01:09 PM.
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Scott, I know.
There is an M-Audio Keystation Pro 88 sitting on the music workstation desk in front of me.
Please recall that I'm the guy who recently turned you on to Enigma software and what it can do. Enigma works with ALL M-Audio keyboards AFAIK, but I've been using Enigma off and on for a time that is measurable in years. I also have used it to program M-Audio keyboards for other keyboardists use in road shows, can't mention names here, sorry.
But I was talking about the gig rack and its appointments. While I do have one keyboard controller in that setup that can be programmed that way, it is an 88 key weighted piano keyboard, just like the Keystation Pro. What I prefer when emulating Hammond organ is an organ keyboard. If I can't have the waterfall keys of the original, so be it, just be careful about those full glisses or risk cutting a finger, but I like to use a 61 key board for the hammond emulation because the B3 has the same number of keys on it. I also take the time to set the Transpose properly such that the organ's middle C is exactly where it is supposed to be, something most people don't realize because of the octaves situation on the drawbars.
So I have a few older 61 key boards that, while their internal sounds are useful only for retro stuff, they make great keyboard controllers. The Yamaha DX11 and DX7 come to mind.
Funny story, was on a gig with the DX7 at the top of the rack and while setting up there was this younger fella who came up, you know the type, said he was a keyboardist also and began rattling off brand names and models and knocking the DX7 as being old, long in the tooth and not sounding very good as compared to the new WunderKeys STP-5000.
So for the first song I changed my MIDI patch bay connects in the rack to fire the Ketron SD4 from the DX7's keyboard, still using my custom layers and effects. Then, for the next tune, I hurriedly patched it into the laptop and the B4II organ, with my stereo keyboard amp/speaker setup. Leslie. No, make that, L.E.S.L.I.E.
At the break, he said, "Man, you get some awesome sounds out of that old thing!"
So I never told him.
Maybe old Mel down at the music emporium will appreciate the kid when he pays top dollar for a used and well worn DX7, though...
--Mac
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You dawg!
R.
P.S.: QOTD: Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill.
"My primary musical instrument is the personal computer."
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Mac,
You dawg is right!
I like my old Ensoniq VFX SD keyfeel. I hate the keyfeel on the Oxygen - but it does have 9 sliders (hm, wonder why 9?) and specifically has a drawbar mode of operation, Enigma software notwithstanding. Thanks again for the Enigma reference - I hope I can get done what I'm trying to do using it in some fashion.
I couldn't remember which M-Audio board you had. I didn't know there were any M-audio boards besides the Oxygen series with sliders. Sorry about that. BTW - I did finally get a password reset for my M-Audio account and hopefully will be getting some help with doing what I'm trying with the assignable buttons.
The Oxygen 49 is very lightweight - can carry it under one arm, but I wouldn't drop it - I think it would shatter into pieces. Another problem with the lightweight nature of the beast is that if you do gliss with it, don't push too hard or you can send it off of the v-arms of an Ultimate keyboard stand (I have first hand experience with this - caught it just in time before it dove to the floor).
I just thought that maybe you could use just the slider section of the Oxygen 49 board to do what you want to do. Looks cheaper than the DIY solution that's out there, and it should work directly. Keep the DX7 as one of the 'manuals' and keep fooling that kid!
-Scott
Last edited by rockstar_not; 12/01/09 05:03 PM.
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Hm. Using an O8 is a good idea. Especially if I can glom onto a used one at an even better price.
As for the thing going south off of the Ultimate Stand, get some stick on velcro tape, put the fuzzy side on the Ultimate arm runners and put the hook side on the bottom of the plastic keyboard such that they line up. Tip: applying a double-wide tape or two of the same side-by-side on the keyboard bottom makes lining it up a lot easier. Clean both surfaces with alcohol first. It'll stick.
--Mac
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Actually, the Ultimate stand belongs to work, Oxygen belongs to me. I think what I might actually do is ty-rap that bugger onto the stand. I'll get some ty-rap anchor pads with the sticky-back tape on them, put those on the board, then keep some long ty-raps in the lappy bag and whenever I'm practicing with the silent band, then tie that thing right down.
I do have my own space-age Ultimate stand that eventually the rubber pads on the arms kind of just melted off. The double-backed tape that Ultimate used had a useful durability of about 15 years, then it just kind of gelled and gave up.
I'll have to give the velcro idea a try with my own stand, but I'll have to watch it because the arms store in very tight fitting slots in the top of the main triangular prism tube - the velcro will have to fit in the same place as where the rubber pads go.
I've never really liked that stand because of where the feet end up. Always in the way of where I want to put a sustain switch.
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Quote:
Actually, the Ultimate stand belongs to work, Oxygen belongs to me. I think what I might actually do is ty-rap that bugger onto the stand. I'll get some ty-rap anchor pads with the sticky-back tape on them, put those on the board, then keep some long ty-raps in the lappy bag and whenever I'm practicing with the silent band, then tie that thing right down.
Good idea, especially if you can find those tie-wraps with the little finger release tab on them so you can easily undo and reuse them.
Quote:
I do have my own space-age Ultimate stand that eventually the rubber pads on the arms kind of just melted off. The double-backed tape that Ultimate used had a useful durability of about 15 years, then it just kind of gelled and gave up.
Yes, this has happened on both of my Ultimate stands also. But only after having to leave them inside a hot van, that seems to be what does it. On the one stand, I cleaned all the goo off of the sticks and carefully applied a straight single bead of silicone RTV HD in black from the auto parts store, as straight as possible, paying attention not to squeeze the bead to large so the strips would not prevent inserting the arms into their storage at the top of the stand. Let the stuff cure a good 24 hours or more, then, if necessary trim back the silicone bead with a sharp box knife until it fits into the arm storage slots easily. So far, so good. But it looks like this repair will eventually tear off also.
Quote:
I'll have to give the velcro idea a try with my own stand, but I'll have to watch it because the arms store in very tight fitting slots in the top of the main triangular prism tube - the velcro will have to fit in the same place as where the rubber pads go.
That is exactly the case. Having done it for a touring act I set up under hire, though, I can tell you that once the original foam pads are removed, and if you get the 1/2" wide velcro tape, once the tape is applied to the arms and the adhesive has had a chance to cure a bit, they fit. Problem is finding 1/2" wide velcro tape. It is out there somewhere, but rather rare. If it turns out to be unobtanium, try carefully cutting the readily available 1" piece in half with sharp scissors, then apply to the sticks.
Quote:
I've never really liked that stand because of where the feet end up. Always in the way of where I want to put a sustain switch.
Tell me about it. I love the Ultimate stands for their ease of portability and packing, but the sustain pedal and Expression pedal problem persists because of the leg design. A small flat board cut to fit the right side leg area, then attach short wood feet risers to the backside of the board such that they support the board over the leg (foot) of the stand at a slant towards you, while serving as a slot to capture the board over the leg at the same time, works well. The pedals are attached to the board using the heavy duty velcro pads. This board is made of 1/4" ply and the little wood block risers underneath are made from sawing up a single piece of 2X2 pine into six little feet. Again, the blocks at the rear are a bit higher than the blocks that are on my side of the leg, such that the ply is slanted towards me a bit with the front edge of the ply touching ground level. Those blocks create a slot that fits right down over the leg rather tightly but not so tight as the wood has worn. A coat or two of flat black spray paint and at least my pedals are where I left 'em when my big foot needs 'em again.
You're an engineer also, Scott, I'm sure you'll come up with something, if it is better than my wooden pedal platform workaround, let me know about it.
--Mac
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