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I have a Yamaha PA like the one pictured HERE and on a job today I lost my right stereo channel. Nothing nadda xcoming from the right speaker. I reversed the speaker plugs just to double check that it was not a speaker or a cable, it was not. Now when I slide the little L-R switch under the Power Amp switch on the right hand side to mono I am getting some output into the right speaker but it is considerably less powerful than the volume and punch I am getting in the left hand speaker. I know this is not much information, but this is also a shot in the dark as hopefully someone might have a clue as to the cause of and a fix for this issue. I plan to bring the unit into a local repair Monday as I am happy not to have a gig until next week so maybe within a week or so I can get it repaired. Thanks for any and all responses.
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Almost definitely, you blew one channel. You normally set it to stereo, and lost one side. When you switch to mono, you are hearing half the power, divided into two speakers.
Any fuses you can check?
BIAB 2025 Win Audiophile. Software: Studio One 7 Pro, Swam horns, Acoustica-7, Notion 6, Song Master Pro, Win 11 Home. Hardware: Intel i9, 32 Gb; Presonus 192 & Faderport 8, Royer 121, Slate VSX, Adam Sub8 & Neumann 120 monitors.
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Quote:
Now when I slide the little L-R switch under the Power Amp switch on the right hand side to mono I am getting some output into the right speaker but it is considerably less powerful than the volume and punch I am getting in the left hand speaker.
That would seem to rule out a blown power amp.
I'd first check for a shorted speaker cable. If it isn't that, I'd then suspect a blown speaker.
Isolation is the key here, switch the cable from side to side, then use the known good speaker to check the side that wasn't working, process of elimination and clear headed testing, noting the results, should soon point the finger at only one component.
--Mac
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Quote:
Quote:
Now when I slide the little L-R switch under the Power Amp switch on the right hand side to mono I am getting some output into the right speaker but it is considerably less powerful than the volume and punch I am getting in the left hand speaker.
That would seem to rule out a blown power amp.
I'd first check for a shorted speaker cable. If it isn't that, I'd then suspect a blown speaker.
Isolation is the key here, switch the cable from side to side, then use the known good speaker to check the side that wasn't working, process of elimination and clear headed testing, noting the results, should soon point the finger at only one component.
--Mac
Matt & Mac,
I checked the cables, i.e. switched back and forth between channels and both the cables and the speakers work when run through the left channel, so I am thinking the right channel may be blown. Now when I switch to mono the "left channel" still has lots of power but the right channel that was not working in the stereo mode only has minisucle output.
If the channel is blown does the PA have top be scrapped or can it be repaired?
Edited portion . . . Not sure about fuses I'll check.
Thanks guys,
Last edited by Danny C.; 04/03/10 05:34 PM.
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Hi Danny
It has been a dogs age since I've been inside a mixer or amplifier. But I used to repair em long long ago. Maybe Mac has been inside some of the newer stuff.
Unless the method of construction has changed a lot recently, it ought to be feasible to get it repaired cheaper than buying a new one.
A long time ago my typical price for a blown power amp was around $100 sometimes higher, just depending on what was wrong. Dunno if repair has drastically inflated nowadays. In the old days you could expect to replace at least one of the small components, and typically expect to replace several power transistors, though you never can tell. Sometimes all you have to do is re-melt a bad solder connection that took a few years of wiggling around to finally go bad.
But even if it is just a bad solder joint, the repair guy has to take the gadget apart and find/fix the joint, test, reassemble, test again. So unless the repairman is deadly efficient (as some fellers can be), it will probably be on the bench for at least an hour even for the simple repair.
Some shops back then would buy matched pairs of transistors that can be pretty expensive, and then do retail markup on the parts, so the parts could be pretty dern expensive if you replace 4 or 8 power transistors. But you can't really blame the shop too much. Even though the prices might seem high, I never know many audio repairmen that lived in mansions and drove cadillacs <g>.
I'd buy big bags of good quality transistors way back when (cheaper than matched devices) and sit down with the curve tracer and make my own matched sets. Which didn't take a lot of my time and save some money for everybody. But if a repairman is busy enough, such practice might seem a waste of time.
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It can be repaired, no question.
--Mac
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Danny, C
You've got a PM...
--Mac
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Danny,
Unless the unit is under warranty, I'm going to guess that you're going to pay about $200 for the repair, which is almost half the price of the unit. That would be 2-3 hours of labor and parts at something like this:
Fast turnaround and rush services available!
Normal turnaround is 5-7 business days...
Rate: $85.00 Per Hour (Rush Fee: $50)
That's American Music here in Seattle. Parts are extra. Power transistors aren't usually *that* much, a few dollars a piece, when you figure mark up, but you could easily be looking at $50 for those.
So, be prepared. You'll have a working amp that may or may not last 30 minutes at the next gig, or last four years. Who knows. "Ya pays your money and takes ya chances!" Most places will have a 30 or 90 day warranty on their work, but that's not real reassuring when you've paid out $200+ and have the same issue six months later on the other channel.
Gary
I'm blessed watching God do what He does best. I've had a few rough years, and I'm still not back to where I want to be, but I'm on the way and things are looking far better now than what they were!
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When you slide that switch one power amp is for mains the other is for monitors and would be controlled by the monitor send. If the send is down thus the difference in levels. When in mono turn up the monitor sends. I'm suspecting the switch that does the routing of the signals. Slide that swith back and forth several times rapidly. Maybe some cleaner.
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Quote:
You'll have a working amp that may or may not last 30 minutes at the next gig, or last four years.
Every repair facility I've ever had anything to do with backs up their work with a warranty period that covers any work done. Typically 90 days, sometimes 30 days, but always there.
A good service technician stands behind their work.
The first thing for Danny to do is get that thing to a shop for troubleshoot and estimate, that's the only way to find out realworld costs of repair. For all anybody from a distance knows, all that is wrong could be a simple broken internal connection.
--Mac
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Thanks everyone . . . my plan is to get it on a local repair bench as early possible tomorrow tomorrow morning. I'll let you all know the outcome.
Again thanks again for the quick assistance.
Happy Easter!
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Mac,
And you hit it directly on the head when you said "backs up their work with a warranty period that covers any work done." If the unit has separate power amps for each channel, they may work on the right channel, but leaves the left channel alone. That would not be covered under the warranty.
Now, as a technician, I do stand behind my work, and you can bet that if I was on that bench, I would be looking at both channels to make sure that there wasn't damage from a power spike or some other 'insult' to the circuitry that took out the one channel, and may have left the other marginal.
However, many companies, including ours, say 'we warrant the work we did.' If the other channel dies, even though we checked it, tested it, burned it in for 48 hours or more and cleared it as okay and sent it back to you, that other channel is on you. This is just the nature of the business right now. Companies can't afford to warrant parts of a unit they didn't work on. It's the economy. It may not be fair, but that's what's happening, and I'm hearing it from a lot of customers.
Danny, I recommend that you get a very detailed warranty explanation about what will and won't be covered and for how long after the company repairs it, and make sure you get it in writing.
Gary
I'm blessed watching God do what He does best. I've had a few rough years, and I'm still not back to where I want to be, but I'm on the way and things are looking far better now than what they were!
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Gents,
I think I got lucky! Well I checked every cable from the PA to the speakers and the monitor over backwards time and time again . . . BUT, I did not check the 1/8 headphone to RCA connectors to the PA! I only go to this point as when I was doing one of the previous checks "the good side" of the stereo output quit. Silence, now nothing from either channel and I thought well great now I have blown the other side now. Then I thought, hey check from the source i.e. the earphone jack to the PA wires. But surely these little wires that never get moved and are velcroed into place could not have been damaged . . . . wrong I guess as now with a new 10.00 set of earphone to RCA cables from Radio Shack both channels are putting out like a Heidi Fleiss employee on a weekend night when the Fleet is in town.
I will now keep backups of even something as simple as this.
Hopefully this was all there was to it, and thanks again for all the wonderful support and suggestions.
Later,
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Danny, Why am I not surprised?  I'm glad that was all it was. Gary
I'm blessed watching God do what He does best. I've had a few rough years, and I'm still not back to where I want to be, but I'm on the way and things are looking far better now than what they were!
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Okay.
Gary always goes for the worst case scenario, we love him.
Cool beans.
Keep your head, ISOLATE.
--Mac
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Quote:
Danny,
Why am I not surprised?
I'm glad that was all it was.
Gary
Gary,
I'll answer that . . . you are not surprised because you know this business and I was surprised because I am a retired whiskey salesman.  
Later,
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Danny - I'm glad you found the issue. From what I can see on the Musician's friend page you posted, that's a rack mounted mixer with a power amp built in.
Like Mac, I'm sure if it went bad it could probably be repaired - however with the listed weight, most likely that thing is actually full of surface mount circuit boards and little to no capability except board swapping for 'repairs'. Just an educated guess dealing with similar products in the bargain range of powered mixers with EQ, effects, etc.
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Power amp section is still discrete components, mostly thru-hole and can be repaired.
Matter of fact, Surface Mount is generally reparable also.
I do it all the time, as does any service tech worth the name.
Board swapping does often take place at the warranty repair level, though, which is a good thing for the customer.
--Mac
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SMD repairs aren't hard to do, although as your eyes get older, you need some help.
I can't do BGA (Ball Grid Array) repairs, because I don't have the equipment for it, but then again, I don't have the need for it. Everything else, I do, and often do with a soldering iron. All it takes is a steady hand and a bit of patience...and a good stereo-optic microscope.
Gary
I'm blessed watching God do what He does best. I've had a few rough years, and I'm still not back to where I want to be, but I'm on the way and things are looking far better now than what they were!
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If I set up an electronic bench again, would look at the various 'video microscope' options to see if something would work good and be affordable. After the cataract operation, it is a lot of trouble adjusting eyeglasses and distance of an illuminated magnifier to keep things in focus. A high-F-ratio video microscope (pretty good depth of field) that one could view on a "perfect eye-focus placed" video monitor, might make long hours at a surface-mount repair bench more tolerable.
Also buy some specialized surface mount soldering tools. Doubtful that the old 25 watt temp-controlled Weller would really cut it. Haven't shopped to see what is available nowadays. Have seen some folk replace surface mount components with an ordinary solder iron, but dunno if I could develop the skill. Sometimes fancy tools can be "skill substitutes" to a certain degree. A really good guitar won't turn a klutz into an expert guitarist, but on the other hand a really good guitar is certainly easier to play than an ole $30 Woolworth boat-oar <g>.
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